If you have thin or fine hair, you might think any haircut can work—but according to veteran stylist Justin Hickox, some popular styles could actually be ‘working against you.’ With over 30 years in the industry and experience styling tens of thousands of clients, Hickox explains that certain cuts can make your hair look flatter, less voluminous, and even unhealthy. “If you have thin, fine hair you should definitely stay away from these five hairstyles,” he says.
Here are the top five styles Hickox warns can sabotage the appearance of thin hair—and how to avoid them.
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1. Super Long Hair
While long locks may look dreamy, Hickox cautions that hair past your bra strap or lower back can make thin hair appear weaker. “The further it gets from the neckline, the thinner it starts to look at the very ends,” he explains. Long hair can also make layers difficult to maintain, as the bottom may not have enough density to support additional shape, leaving hair looking limp and lifeless.
2. Long-to-Medium Length Layers
Layered hair can be flattering, but too many layers on thin, fine hair can backfire. Hickox notes that excessive layering at the ends “ends up making everything look thinner” and can expose sparse areas. For thin hair, it’s better to focus layering at the top while keeping the lower sections more solid to create the illusion of fullness.
3. The Lob (Long Bob)
A lob, or long bob, is trendy, but Hickox says it can be tricky for fine hair. “It’s kind of an in-between length that ends up hanging there,” he explains. Without the right top layers or strategic styling, a lob can appear flat and lifeless. Shortening the length slightly and adding subtle layers at the crown can help maximize volume.
4. Medium All-One-Length Cuts
Keeping hair all one length around collarbone length might seem easy, but for thin hair, it can make strands feel heavy and flat. Hickox advises leaving the bottom mostly uniform but adding layers at the top and around the face to give hair movement and lift, creating the appearance of denser, healthier locks.
5. Pixie Cuts That Are Too Short on Top
Short hair can actually benefit fine hair—but only if proportioned correctly. Hickox warns that trimming the top too short can leave a small cap of volume that doesn’t support the sides, creating an unbalanced, thin look. The key is maintaining enough length in strategic areas to allow styling for natural lift and fullness.
The Bottom Line
The right cut can make thin, fine hair look dense, voluminous, and healthy—but the wrong style can work against you. Hickox emphasizes that understanding your hair’s texture and density is key. “Having enough length in the correct areas gives you a better shape, easier daily styling, and overall more volume,” he says. So if you’ve been struggling to make your fine hair look fuller, consider these professional insights before your next salon visit.
