1. Fragrance & Flavoring Agents
Sure, vanilla-mint-cupcake-sugar-cookie balms smell amazing—but dermatologists warn they’re a major culprit behind irritated lips.
Fragrance mixes and synthetic flavors are among the most common allergens in beauty products. On the thin, delicate skin of the lips, they can lead to redness, peeling, and chronic dryness.
Why it worsens chapping:
Causes inflammation and micro-irritationCan trigger allergic contact dermatitisCreates a cycle of itching → licking → more dryness
Experts recommend choosing fragrance-free, flavor-free balms—especially in winter.
2. Menthol, Camphor & Phenol (a.k.a. The “Cooling” Ingredients)
These ingredients give that minty, tingly, “cooling” sensation many people associate with healing—but dermatologists say it’s actually a sign of irritation.
Menthol, camphor, and phenol exfoliate and strip the skin’s protective barrier. That’s why your lips may feel smooth at first, then become even drier hours later.
Why it worsens chapping:
Disrupts the skin barrierCauses burning or stingingLeads to rebound dryness
Many classic balms include these ingredients, so read labels carefully.
3. Alcohol (Including Denatured Alcohol & Drying Alcohols)
Alcohol shows up in some balms to create a lightweight texture—but it evaporates quickly, taking moisture with it.
On already-dehydrated winter lips, alcohol accelerates water loss and can worsen cracks and flakiness.
Why it worsens chapping:
Instantly dries the skinIncreases transepidermal water lossCan cause painful splitting in severe dryness
If “alcohol denat.” appears near the top of the ingredient list, steer clear.
So What Should You Use Instead?
Dermatologists say the most protective, winter-friendly lip balms contain:
Beeswax or lanolin (to seal in moisture)Petrolatum (a top-tier occlusive for extreme cold)Ceramides (to repair the barrier)Shea butter and cocoa butter (deep moisturizers)Hyaluronic acid or glycerin (to draw in hydration)
Look for “fragrance-free,” “alcohol-free,” and “dermatologist-recommended” labels.