Hair oils are a staple in many beauty routines, but according to hair experts, they’re not the miracle solution for hair loss or instant thickness that some might hope for. Britt Carter, co-founder and colorist at FREEHAND Salon, shared why oils are often misunderstood—and how to actually use them for healthy, shiny hair.
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Why Some Hair Oils Can Trigger Shedding
“It’s easy to think that oils can stop hair loss or make strands thicker, but that’s a bit of a beauty myth,” Carter says. Oils do have a role in hair care—they mimic the scalp’s natural sebum, keeping hair flexible, smooth, and protected. But applying heavy oils directly to the scalp can backfire. “A thick layer of oil, whether natural or synthetic, can clog follicles, limit oxygen flow, and even trigger more shedding,” he warns.
Genetics, hormones, and stress are far more influential on hair thickness than any topical product. “For real hair improvement, focus on scalp health, a balanced diet, and products that stimulate circulation or support new growth, like peptide- or caffeine-based serums,” Carter notes. Caffeine-based serums, for instance, can draw blood to the scalp and provide oxygenation that creates a healthy environment for growth.
Oils That Actually Do Wonders
Not all oils are created equal. Carter recommends lighter, breathable oils like argan and jojoba. “Davines Oi Oil is a game-changer,” he says. “It mimics your scalp’s natural oils, won’t cause buildup, and just a few drops on your ends before bed can do wonders for shine and softness.”
When it comes to application, “less is more,” he advises. Once or twice a week is enough for most hair types, with slightly more frequent use—every 1-2 days—helpful for curly or coarse hair that naturally produces less sebum. He also cautions that heavier oils containing non-breathable silicones can cause color-treated hair, especially blondes, to yellow over time, so reading labels is crucial.
The bottom line
“Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp,” he emphasizes. Regular gentle exfoliation, proper cleansing, and allowing your natural oils to do most of the work are essential habits. Hair oils are best used to hydrate and protect the mid-lengths and ends, not as a cure for thinning or shedding. Hair oils can be a luxurious addition to your routine, but they’re not a shortcut to thicker or fuller hair. By choosing lightweight, breathable oils like argan or jojoba, applying them strategically, and focusing on scalp health and nutrition, you can maintain vibrant, strong strands without risking more shedding. Remember: great hair isn’t just about the products—it’s about consistent, smart grooming habits.
