As skin matures, the makeup techniques that once worked beautifully in our 20s and 30s can suddenly start doing the opposite—settling into fine lines, emphasizing dryness, and making the complexion look heavier or older than it is. According to licensed esthetician and makeup artist Sherry Okamura, small shifts in how foundation is applied can make a dramatic difference for women over 40. Here are three dated foundation techniques experts say it’s time to leave behind—and what to do instead.
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1. Powder and Mineral Foundations Used All Over the Face
One of the biggest mistakes Okamura sees on mature skin is relying on powder foundation as a primary base. “Powder foundation aka mineral cosmetics in powder form settle in wrinkles and fine lines to accentuate them,” she explains. Since skin naturally becomes drier with age, powder formulas can cling to texture and make dryness more noticeable, leaving the complexion looking flat or cakey. While powders can still have a place for very targeted oil control, using them as an all-over foundation tends to emphasize exactly what many women are trying to soften.
2. Heavy, Full-Coverage Foundation Everywhere
Another outdated technique is applying a thick layer of foundation across the entire face, regardless of where coverage is actually needed. Over time, this can mask the skin’s natural dimension and highlight creases around the mouth, nose, and eyes. Okamura notes that “using foundation all over the face might be unnecessary,” especially as skin tone often becomes more uneven in specific areas rather than everywhere at once. A heavy base can settle into expression lines and make makeup look obvious rather than polished.
3. Overly Shimmery or Sparkly Foundation Formulas
Foundations loaded with shimmer or high shine may look fresh on very young skin, but they tend to exaggerate texture on more mature complexions. Okamura advises, “Save the foundation with lots of sparkle and shine for 20-somethings.” Excess shimmer reflects light unevenly, drawing attention to pores, fine lines, and dryness. Instead of creating a youthful glow, it can make skin appear tired or overly made up.
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Rather than covering everything, Okamura recommends a more strategic, skin-first approach. Using a tinted primer with SPF can provide lightweight, even coverage while protecting the skin—she personally recommends the Glo Skin Beauty Tinted Primer for a natural finish. If more coverage is needed, liquid or cream foundations work best when applied sparingly and built gradually only where necessary. Setting the base with a setting spray or gently pressing a damp makeup sponge over the skin helps lock in coverage without drying it out.
For areas that need extra attention, like dark spots, redness, or under-eye circles, Okamura suggests spot-treating with concealer or color correctors instead of layering more foundation. Those with oily or combination skin can still use powder—but only lightly and in targeted areas. The takeaway for women over 40 is simple: less product, better formulas, and smarter placement lead to a smoother, more youthful-looking complexion that enhances skin instead of hiding it.
