How Red Light Therapy Works
“Red light therapy works at the cellular level,” explains Dr. Kseniya Kobets, Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care. “It delivers specific wavelengths—most commonly red light around 630–660 nm and near-infrared light around 830–880 nm—that penetrate the skin and stimulate mitochondrial activity, the power factory of the cell.”
This stimulation increases ATP production, fueling fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen and elastin production. Over time, the result is improved collagen density, plumper skin, smoother texture, and softened fine lines, particularly in delicate areas like crow’s feet. Red light therapy also reduces low-grade inflammation and oxidative stress, which can accelerate collagen breakdown as we age. “With consistent use, the combination of collagen stimulation and reduced inflammation leads to visible improvements in skin quality,” Dr. Kobets says.
Choosing the Right Device
With countless at-home devices flooding the market, picking the right one can be overwhelming. “Patients need to be selective,” Dr. Kobets advises, “to avoid devices that don’t work—or worse, those that could exacerbate inflammation or pigmentation.” She recommends choosing FDA-cleared devices that are well-reviewed and backed by clinical data. “Check the FDA 510(k) database if you’re unsure—some brands make misleading claims about clearance,” she adds.
Wavelength matters too. True red light therapy devices emit light in the studied ranges mentioned above, while cheaper models may primarily emit heat, offering little therapeutic benefit and potential skin risks. Transparency from the brand about wavelength output, safety testing, and clinical validation should outweigh flashy marketing claims.
Panels vs. Masks
Some users wonder whether a panel is better than a mask. “Panels can cover larger areas and deliver higher power output, which is useful for body treatments,” Dr. Kobets explains. “But stronger isn’t always better for facial skin. Masks are designed specifically for the face, with safer dosing for delicate areas.”
At-Home vs. In-Office
Red light therapy can be used safely at home with a proper device. Dr. Kobets notes, “Consistency is key. At-home devices are often more effective long-term because patients can use them multiple times per week without the barrier of office visits.” In-office treatments, meanwhile, are ideal as an adjunct to procedures, helping reduce inflammation and support healing. “You really get the best of both worlds with ongoing at-home maintenance plus occasional professional treatments,” she says.
The Bottom line
Red light therapy is more than a beauty trend—it’s a scientifically validated anti-aging tool. With the right device, regular use can soften crow’s feet, improve skin elasticity, and give the complexion a youthful glow, all from the comfort of home.