This article has been updated since its initial publish date to include more information.
As we age, we naturally lose moisture and oils as our skin becomes drier. This is one way wrinkles form, and the way to prevent or delay this is through frequent hydration of your skin, both through drinking enough water and using topical products.
We checked in with a dermatologist and skincare expert to learn more about one common skincare ingredient that is often dubbed “essential” in anti-aging beauty routines— it’s popular for a reason! Read on for tips, suggestions and insight from Dr. Angela Casey, MD, dermatologist and founder of Bright Girl youth skincare line, and Dr. Simran Sethi, MD, skincare expert and founder of RenewMD Beauty & Wellness.
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Why Hyaluronic Acid Is Vital In Any Anti-Aging Skincare Routine
Your body produces hyaluronic acid naturally, as it is a clear substance found in the skin, eyes and connective tissues. The purpose of hyaluronic acid is to retain water and keep these areas moisturized to function properly. This substance is often used as a main ingredient in serums, injections, moisturizers, primers, eye drops, etc., as it has the ability to hydrate the outer layer of your skin and elsewhere. This acid, Sethi explains, can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and give your skin a more youthful glow and smooth feel.
"The top function of hyaluronic acid is to produce, maintain and add longevity to moisture in the skin, therefore strengthening the skin barrier, which promotes optimal skin renewal, collagen production, elastin and texture improvement, and overall healed, nourished skin," she says. When it comes to anti-aging skincare and products to use over 40, hyaluronic acid has been a "go-to skincare staple for a while," and it "certainly has remarkable benefits when it comes to adding instant moisture with continued hydration throughout the day," Sethi adds. This, she says, plays a longstanding part in your skin’s overall health, texture, tone and radiance.
When To Use It And How Often
Hyaluronic acid is most effective when applied at night in a serum, Casey explains, after cleansing with a gentle pH-balanced cleanser and before applying a thick moisturizer to repair your skin as you sleep. "When we apply an effective skincare product, such as hyaluronic acid, at night, we will see optimal efficacy of the product," she says. Because our skin is so dependent on water and hydration to function properly, it is "essential for the skin to stay hydrated in order to stay strong and perform its protective functions," she adds. Hyaluronic acid "applied to the skin at night penetrates into the skin, and then continues to attract water towards it," allowing for better hydration of the skin, Casey notes, and "skin that is well-hydrated stays strong, resilient, and healthy."
Applying serums with hyaluronic acid every night is an effective step in any routine over 40 due to the following things that happen when you sleep, according to Casey. "Let's also think about how the skin functions at night," she says, adding that firstly, "the skin contains circadian clock genes which regulate its circadian rhythm." Next, "skin permeability is higher in the evening compared to morning."
Penetration of hydrophilic (water-soluble) and lipophilic (fat-soluble) compounds peaks at 4:00 a.m., she explains, so "when we apply skincare products to our skin in the evening, the skin permeability is higher and penetration of the products is greater, so we are going to see superior efficacy of the products applied at night compared to the morning." Additionally, Casey stresses that blood flow in the skin increases in the late afternoon and evening, and this also relates to the skin temperature, which peaks in the afternoon and has a trough at night.
Ultimately, Casey concludes that "most skin repair happens overnight," and "in order for this skin repair optimally," the skin needs to be hydrated. Dehydrated skin will be more sluggish and compromised in repairing itself, so adding a hyaluronic acid serum to your nightly routine at any age (but definitely over 40!) will provide effective hydration and moisturizing results.
