No matter how committed we are to sunscreen and hydration, fine lines and wrinkles eventually show up — and for many, finding the right treatments to reduce them without harsh procedures can be a challenge. Luckily, skin experts Ben Fukes and Robert Love are breaking down the top three dermatologist-backed ingredients that target wrinkles by working deep beneath the surface.
From skin-strengthening acids to collagen-activating vitamins, here’s what they say actually works — and why.
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1. Hydroxy Acids
Hydroxy acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid are known exfoliators, but their wrinkle-fighting power comes from how they stimulate skin on a deeper level.
“They disturb the skin barrier in a way that mimics the effects of exercising muscles,” they explain, “which leads to improvements in skin strength and texture over time.”
Benefits:
- Gently exfoliates dead skin cells
- Encourages thicker, stronger skin
- Softens the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
The result? Smoother skin that’s not just polished — it’s actually stronger.
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2. Retinol (Vitamin A)
Often hailed as the gold standard in anti-aging, retinol works by activating fibroblasts — the skin cells responsible for producing collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm and youthful.
“Retinol encourages proper cell division and exfoliates the skin much like hydroxy acids,” says Fukes. “But it also jumpstarts collagen production, which is crucial for reducing wrinkles.”
Benefits:
- Speeds up cell turnover
- Diminishes fine lines and uneven tone
- Promotes smoother, clearer skin over time
Note: Retinol can be powerful, so start slowly and always use SPF during the day.
3. Fat-Soluble Vitamin C
Unlike its more common water-soluble form, fat-soluble vitamin C (such as ascorbyl palmitate or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) is more stable and penetrates deeper into the skin.
“This version doesn’t oxidize as quickly and delivers antioxidant protection while moisturizing and softening the skin,” explains Love.
Benefits:
- Neutralizes free radicals that cause aging
- Moisturizes deeply for a plump, supple texture
- Brightens and smooths skin tone
Think of it as a two-in-one: antioxidant + hydrator.
The Bottom Line: Layer for Best Results
When combined, these three ingredients tackle wrinkles from all angles — exfoliating dead skin, boosting collagen, and locking in moisture while protecting against environmental damage.
“Hydroxy acids strengthen, retinol rebuilds, and fat-soluble vitamin C protects,” says Fukes. “Together, they can create a visible difference in skin tone, texture, and firmness.”
Pro Tip:
Apply hydroxy acids or retinol at night, and use fat-soluble vitamin C in the morning for antioxidant defense. And always pair active ingredients with a gentle moisturizer and SPF to support the skin barrier.
With consistent use, these ingredients won’t just reduce the appearance of wrinkles — they’ll help your skin function like it did years ago.
