When it comes to reducing the appearance of eye bags, dark circles, wrinkles, crow’s feet, and fine lines, searching for effective under-eye products at the drugstore can seem like a daunting task.
To learn about the best skincare ingredients for combating sagging skin and wrinkling around and under the eyes, we turned to Dr. Debra Jaliman, a board-certified NYC dermatologist and Assistant Professor of Dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai.
According to Jaliman, eye creams and serums containing retinol, vitamin C, caffeine, and niacinamide are most effective for restoring a youthful appearance to the eye area. Let’s explore the benefits of each ingredient in more detail:
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4 Essential Anti-Aging Eye Cream Ingredients For Brighter Under-Eyes
1. Retinol
Retinol, often called an essential component of numerous anti-aging products, is a well-known retinoid that stimulates collagen production. Collagen is the most widely found protein in the human body and is credited with promoting strong joints and elastic skin.
This means that frequently using a retinol eye cream can help diminish fine lines and make your skin look more hydrated. In addition, Jaliman says that retinoids can also minimize pigmentation in areas of the face such as beneath the eyes.
This eye cream ingredient, Jaliman says, is derived from vitamin A and inhibits tyrosinase, the group of enzymes that contribute to your skin's pigmentation process.
"Retinol also causes the epidermal cells to be shed more quickly," adds Jaliman. "This peels off the dead darker skin layers," helping your skin have a dewy glow.
2. Vitamin C
Jaliman says vitamin C is a major part of any good skincare regimen. It has the power to help restore brightness to dark spots, diminish the appearance of wrinkles, reduce redness, and even out skin tone.
The multiple advantages of vitamin C are worth noting, especially in an eye cream, she adds. Age spots, fine lines and wrinkles can all be treated and made less obvious with the use of this ingredient. "Vitamin C blocks the conversion of tyrosine into melanin so it decreases melanin formation and lightens skin," Jaliman explains.
"It also stimulates collagen production so it thickens the thin, lower eyelid skin." She goes on to say that L-ascorbic acid is the most active form and the most abundant naturally occurring antioxidant in our skin. She stresses that using a serum in the morning is a great step in anti-aging skincare as well as dark circle treatment.
3. Caffeine
If you rely on your morning caramel macchiato with an extra shot of espresso to get your day started, you'll be pleased to know that caffeine can benefit your skin as well. This stimulant not only energizes when consumed, but when used topically can help to brighten dull, tired or saggy-looking complexions, Jaliman explains.
"Caffeine constricts the blood vessels under the eyes so it minimizes the effect of the discoloration from the blood vessels," she says. Despite their energizing properties, caffeinated eye cream products should not take the place of a regular sleep schedule in regards to healthy skin. Rather, Jaliman recommends, you should incorporate them into your morning skincare routine for the greatest effects.
4. Niacinamede
Niacinamide, one of two types of vitamin B3 (the other being nicotinic acid), is a common ingredient found in skincare serums, toners, and moisturizers. This vitamin cannot be produced naturally and must be supplemented to obtain its beneficial hydration effects on the skin.
The more you hydrate aging skin, Jaliman says, the more likely it is to look refreshed, supple and glowy as opposed to saggy and dull. "Niacinamide decreases hyperpigmentation under the eyes," Jaliman adds. In a cream, she says "it works by preventing the transfer of the melanosomes from the melanocytes to the keratinocytes in the skin."
The Bottom Line
Over time, Jaliman concludes that niacinamide can help strengthen your skin’s most protective barrier and regulate oil production, making wrinkling so much less obvious.
Overall, while these are four go-to and often praised eye cream, serum and moisturizer ingredients, Jaliman suggests visiting your dermatologist for more personalized and specific recommendations.
