There’s just something about dark, moody lipstick colors that can make you feel more dramatic and elegant, especially in the winter when they pair so well with other cold-season shades like deep, rich jewel tones. But if you’re over a certain age you may have heard rumors that it’s time to hang up your wine and mulberry lipsticks and replace them with nudes or pink gloss. No offense to lighter lipsticks, but not everyone looks or feels their best in nude colors, not to mention — who wants to give up entirely on a whole range of darker shades just because they’ve blown out a few more candles on their birthday cake?
So we asked makeup and beauty artists to point out the one dark lipstick mistake you may be making that can look aging — and how you can correct it so that you can rock dark lipstick at any age. Here’s what they had to say.
Mistake: Choosing Matte Over Sheer Formulas
In some cases, the mistake you’re making might not be so much that you are wearing dark lipstick, but that the formula you’re choosing is too drying and is emphasizing wrinkles and fine lines on and around the lips.
“If your lips tend to be on the small or thin side, it is best to use a dark shade in a sheer formula,” said Mary Swaab, the founder and CEO of Colorlab Private Label Cosmetics. “Think watercolor versus acrylic paint. When lip products are on the sheerer side the ‘look’ is achieved without looking goth. Too pigmented or too matte will intensify the small or thin shape, accentuate lines, lip dehydration and wrinkles, and drab the skin tone.”
As far as tone goes, Swaab says it is best to use a middle of the road deep tone as opposed to one that is fully saturated with black. “I would recommend a crème or sheer lipstick, nothing matte or highly pigmented,” Swaab said. “Choosing the correct shade is important too. Choose according to skin depth and tone. The darker the skin tone, the deeper the shade. Lighter skin tones need less depth of color. Knowing if your skin tone is cool or warm and choosing the correct color family is a must to pull off the dark shade.”
Mistake: Choosing The Wrong Dark Lipstick Tone
And speaking of tone: Fiona Taylor, the owner and lead artist of Faces by Fiona, says choosing the correct undertone of a darker lipstick shade is a key factor when it comes to making sure it works for you at any age.
“If you have warm tones choose warm deep berries and reds,” Taylor said. “If you have cool tones, choose deep blue-based reds or icy plums. Choosing to wear the wrong lipstick temperature can make you look washed out, sick or
ghastly. An example of this is a cool plum or brown being worn by someone who has a peachy warm complexion. It can make the under eyes more hollow and sunken because it empathizes the cool areas of the face. It also can appear flat and lifeless. She would be better off choosing a deep maroon.”
Before buying or wearing a dark lipstick, Taylor suggests asking yourself does the lipstick color look fiery or icy — this could assist in making the right choice according to your natural undertone.
“A tip for wearing dark lipstick and still look fresh is to overline and add gloss,” Taylor said. “Since dark colors can make your lips look smaller, adding a little bit more fullness livens it up. Gloss instantly makes any dark lip look softer and more feminine.”
Tip: Moisturize First
Dark lipsticks are just intrinsically drier than lighter lipsticks for some reason, says Hannah Sanderson is the CEO and Founder of Clever Canadian, especially in matte formulations. Moisturizing is essential to prevent your lips from drying out beneath your choice of vampy color,” Sanderson said. “After exfoliating, sealing in moisture will keep lips soft and supple and aid to fill in lines. Apply a thick, buttery balm overnight for an intense treatment, or apply a thin coating of lip balm before you put on lipstick. Remove any excess to prevent the texture from becoming slick, which might allow your lipstick to smear.”
Don’t toss your dark lipstick shades out — simply make a few changes to how you wear it and avoid some common mistakes for your best look.
