Getting a fresh gel manicure is one of those beauty rituals that feels both glamorous and low-maintenance. But as chic as that glossy finish may look, a key ingredient in many gel formulas has sparked international controversy—and the changes happening overseas are hard to ignore.
In May, the European Union announced a ban on trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a chemical found in many gel nail polishes, with the restriction set to take effect on September 1, 2025. Once that date hit, European salons were prevented from purchasing new bottles—they were also required to toss any existing stock. Cosmetic chemist and nail industry expert Doug Schoon explained to TODAY.com that the regulation is sweeping, forcing brands to reformulate if they want to stay in the European market.
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EU Bans TPO
The ban stems from animal studies that linked high doses of TPO to potential reproductive harm and DNA damage. While human data is limited, the EU takes what’s known as a precautionary approach—if there’s doubt, they pull the plug. “It’s about being proactive in protecting consumers,” notes People.com, which also reported on the ban.
So what about the U.S.? Don’t expect to see similar restrictions anytime soon. Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos told TODAY.com that TPO-containing gels remain widely available here, and the FDA is unlikely to ban them at the federal level. The reason is simple: U.S. regulators take a risk-based approach, meaning they wait for stronger evidence of harm in real-world use before stepping in. “TPO is pretty safe as currently used in nail gels,” Dobos explains. She does note, however, that individual states may choose to align with Europe, especially as pressure grows and global brands seek to standardize formulas.
If you’re wondering what TPO actually does, Dobos breaks it down: it’s a photoinitiator, which means it absorbs energy from UV or LED lamps during a manicure, triggering the hardening process that makes gel polish so durable. Without it, your manicure wouldn’t last nearly as long.
Still, not everyone sees TPO as a red flag. Cosmetic chemist Michelle Wong, Ph.D., who runs the science blog Lab Muffin, told TODAY.com that she considers it “extremely safe and doesn’t need to be avoided.” And if you’re still uneasy, there’s no shortage of alternatives. Many brands are already swapping TPO for new photoinitiators, and traditional nail polish never contained the chemical in the first place (phew!).
The bottom line
Europe’s decision has reignited the conversation about how safe our beauty products really are—and how differently countries regulate them. For now, your gel manicure in the U.S. isn’t going anywhere. But with global brands reformulating and more consumers asking questions, the next time you book that nail appointment, you may find your favorite polish quietly evolving.
