With so many lip products on the market—from richly pigmented lipsticks to glossy balms and tingly lip plumpers—it’s easy to focus on shade and finish and forget what’s actually inside the tube. But the skin on your lips is delicate and lacks oil glands, making it especially vulnerable to dryness, irritation, and damage, particularly during the cold winter months. Some popular formulas, including many plumpers, rely on ingredients that create a temporary sensation but can quietly worsen chapping over time.
If your lips feel consistently dry, tight, or flaky, or you’ve noticed they’re more sensitive than they used to be, it may be time to take a closer look at your ingredient labels. What you apply daily can either help repair your lips’ barrier or continually strip it down. Knowing which ingredients truly nourish and which ones irritate can make all the difference in keeping lips soft and comfortable all winter long. Here are two dermatologist-approved ingredients that actually help heal chapped lips, and two common ones you’ll want to avoid.
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1. Shea Butter
Shea butter is deeply nourishing and one of the best ingredients for keeping lips soft and hydrated. Rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, it helps repair the lip barrier and lock in moisture, which is especially important since lips don’t produce their own oils. Regular use can soothe dryness, smooth rough texture, and protect lips from harsh winter conditions.
2. Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that draws water into the lips, helping them look plumper and feel more comfortable. When paired with occlusive ingredients in lip products, it helps maintain hydration and reduce the appearance of fine lines. For dry or aging lips, it provides a noticeable boost in moisture without feeling heavy or greasy.
3. Menthol
Menthol creates a cooling or tingling sensation that may feel refreshing at first, but it can be irritating to the delicate skin on the lips. This sensation is actually a mild inflammatory response, which can weaken the lip barrier over time. With repeated use, menthol can worsen dryness, flaking, and sensitivity.
4. Peppermint
Peppermint oil is often used in lip products for its scent and plumping effect, but it can be super sensitizing. Like menthol, it stimulates blood flow and creates a tingling feeling that may lead to irritation, especially on already dry or chapped lips. Over time, peppermint can contribute to chronic dryness and make lips more prone to cracking.
