If you’ve watched endless makeup tutorials but still can’t get your eye makeup right, veteran makeup artist Risa (of Risa Does Makeup) says you might be following the wrong advice. After 20+ years in the industry—and countless faces from brides to grandmothers—she’s sharing the top three mistakes she sees over and over again on hooded, aging, or downturned eyes. And yes, she’s got better options.
“What works on 25-year-old hooded eyes doesn’t always work on 65-year-old hooded eyes.”
1. Taking Advice from the Wrong People
Not all makeup tutorials are created equal. Risa’s first warning? Be careful who you’re learning from.
“If the person demonstrating a technique doesn’t have truly hooded eyes—and aging eyes—it’s going to be more difficult for you to do that same thing at home.”
She explains that even though techniques from younger influencers look flawless, they don’t always translate to mature skin, where texture, skin laxity, and structure change everything.
2. Using Brushes That Are Way Too Big
Precision is everything when working with hooded or aging eyes. Oversized blending brushes or smudging tools can work against you.
“You want smaller brushes so you can get into those little corners without messing everything up.”
Risa swears by tiny detail brushes like Reffer’s #23 pencil brush for adding subtle definition under the eyes or creating a mini wing that lifts without overpowering.
“It’s maximum impact with minimal effort.”
3. Clinging to the Classic Winged Liner Look
Risa gets it—you’ve worn winged liner for years, and it used to look amazing. But now?
“You open your eyes and bam—eyeliner all over your lid. Ruined shadow. Frustration. I’ve been there.”
Instead of wrestling with shaky hands, poor eyesight, and high-maintenance liquid liners, she recommends switching to tightlining or using eyeshadow with an angled brush.
“Powder eyeshadow and a tiny angled brush are your new best friends.”
Her go-to? The BK Beauty 208 brush with a rich matte brown shadow, applied with her old-school “press and wiggle” method at the lash line. It gives definition without eating up valuable lid space or risking transfer.
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Bonus Tip: Don’t Stress Over Asymmetry
Have one eye more hooded than the other? Welcome to the club.
“Even I deal with this every single day—and I’ve been a pro since the ’90s.”
She suggests adjusting shadow placement, adding an extra lash on one eye, or simply accepting that perfect symmetry isn’t realistic. “Stop being so hard on yourself,” she says.
Bottom Line: Work With Your Features, Not Against Them
Makeup doesn’t have to feel like a fight. According to Risa, it’s all about adapting—new tools, new techniques, and realistic expectations.
“You can still get beautiful results. You just have to change the way you’re doing things.”
