Retinoids have long been considered one of the gold standards in anti-aging skincare, thanks to their ability to smooth fine lines, improve skin texture, and boost collagen production. But recently, a new claim has gained traction on social media: that retinoids may actually age your skin faster by causing skin cells to divide too often.
According to board-certified dermatologist Andrea Suarez, that theory is simply not supported by how the skin functions.
Here’s why she says you shouldn’t be afraid to use retinoids.
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The Myth: Retinoids Make You 'Run Out' Of Skin Cells
One common misconception is that because retinoids speed up skin cell turnover, they force your cells to divide more frequently. Some social media users have suggested that this could eventually "use up" your skin cells, leading to faster aging.
Dr. Dray says that's a misunderstanding of basic skin biology. "This is a myth I see on social media and comment sections a fair amount—that retinoids are going to actually age your skin faster because they improve cell division," she explains.
Your Skin Doesn't Have A Limited Number Of Cell Divisions
The idea behind the myth is that cells can only divide a certain number of times before they stop functioning. While that concept exists in certain biological contexts, Dr. Dray says it doesn't apply to the way the outer layer of our skin continually renews itself.
"That's really not how our skin works at all," she says. She explains that the epidermis contains stem cells capable of self-renewal, meaning your body continuously produces new skin cells throughout your life. "The epidermis has stem cells which are capable of self-renewal. That's why you go your entire life—no matter how old you live to—and never run out of skin."
What Actually Ages Your Skin?
According to Dr. Dray, skin aging is driven by completely different factors. "It's not the increased number of cell divisions throughout your lifetime that ages the skin," she explains.
"It's the accumulation of damage, as well as just age-related decline."
Sun exposure, environmental pollutants, smoking, and the natural loss of collagen and elastin over time all play much larger roles in visible aging than normal skin cell turnover.
Think Of It Like Your Digestive Tract
To help explain the concept, Dr. Dray compares skin renewal to another system in the body. "Cells are shed through the digestive tract every time you eat... but you don't ever run out of intestines, no matter how frequently you eat, because there are stem cells."
The same principle applies to the skin: healthy stem cells continually replace old cells, allowing the epidermis to regenerate throughout your lifetime.
The Bottom Line
Retinoids remain one of the most well-studied ingredients in dermatology for improving signs of aging, acne, and uneven skin texture. While they can cause temporary dryness or irritation when first introduced, there's no scientific evidence that they accelerate aging by making your skin "run out" of cells. If you're using a retinoid, dermatologists recommend pairing it with a moisturizer and daily broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin barrier and maximize its long-term benefits.
