This article has been updated since it was first published on December 9, 2021.
If you’re already struggling with thinning hair and fallout, the last thing you’ll want to do is use products which make the issue worse. Heavy gels, mousses, and sprays may weigh down your strands and lead to expedited fallout, but even your shampoo can be to blame for severe thinning, and it’s worth evaluating the formula you’re using to ensure you’re making the best choice for your hair.
We spoke with Board-Certified Dermatologist Dr. Steven D. Shapiro, M.D. to find out which popular shampoo ingredient you should be on the lookout for as the culprit for breakage and hair loss, and it all comes down to sulfates. We also added three more ingredients to keep your eye out for — they aren’t doing your hair any favors.
Sulfates
One of the most satisfying parts of washing your hair is the rich, soapy lather your shampoo likely produces. However it’s sulfates, or the ingredient which produces that effect, which is often to blame for thinning hair and fallout, particularly if your hair is already on the thinner side. “Sulfates are harsh detergents that strip moisture from your scalp and strands. This can dry your hair out, making it dull, weak, and brittle. Unfortunately, this can lead to breaking and splitting,” he explains.
Keeping your hair and scalp well moisturized is one of the key factors for maintaining a beautiful head of hair, but unfortunately, slathering on foamy shampoo has the opposite effect for your scalp and can actually dry out your strands, making them more prone to breakage. “When sulfates strip your scalp of healthy oils, your scalp can start overproducing oil as a way to compensate. This can actually make your hair look stringy and greasy — making thin hair look thinner,” adds Shapiro. With this, you may start to overcompensate by washing your hair more frequently which will only exacerbate the issue, thinning hair even further.
Instead of shampoos which include sulfates in the ingredient list, your strands will be better served with a hydrating shampoo that may not create that satisfying lather, but will work to strengthen your hair in the long run, reducing the risk of breakage and even keeping your locks looking clean for longer. With this, Shapiro also warns against using too much dry shampoo in your day to day routine as this can also compromise the health of your hair. “Most dry shampoo formulas are full of starch and alcohol, ingredients that can make your hair dry and brittle. Ideally, you should be using regular shampoo everyday or every other day. The trick is to use a nourishing, sulfate-free shampoo that won’t weaken your hair,” he says.
Parabens
Parabens are preservatives that prevent bacterial growth in cosmetics and haircare products. The problem is they are potentially harmful and can mimic estrogen. They’ve been linked to cancer. Finding shampoos that are free of both sulfates and parabens is the way to go.
Sodium Chloride
Yep, in other words: salt. Sodium Chloride creates a thicker lather when added to shampoo and conditioner, which can feel satisfying when you’re in the shower. But it can also make products dry out your scalp and hair, causing irritation and potential hair loss.
Formaldehyde
There’s no doubt about this one: formaldehyde is a known human carcinogen that can be absorbed through the skin, as animal testing has proven. It’s sometimes added to products as a preservative and is commonly used in chemicals found in Brazilian blowouts. Thankfully, it isn’t as commonplace in everyday shampoos and conditioners, but if you ever come across “Quaternium-15” in your shampoo ingredients list, this is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative and should be avoided.
Staying aware of the products you’re using on your scalp, particularly if you’re aware that your hair is prone to breakage, is one of the best ways to prevent worsening fallout and ultimately reduce the appearance of thinning. While eliminating sulfates and other risky ingredients from your hair care routine will not necessarily help your hair to grow back, it will create a better environment on your scalp for healthier strands to grow, while cutting out the dehydration factor for stronger and more hydrated locks.
