Many daily serums contain ingredients that allow for easier application, velvety textures and have coatings that help the skin look more supple, plump and smooth. However, for those of us with more oily or acne-prone skin, ingredients like these might lead to pore-clogging, which in turn is the culprit for many breakouts, flare-ups and acne spots.
We checked in with dermatologists and skincare experts to learn more about which common ingredient to avoid for acne-prone complexions, how they might contribute to pore-clogging and what to reach for instead. Read on for tips and suggestions from Dr. Jeffrey Hsu, M.D., FAAD, founder of Oak Dermatology, Ksenia Sobchak, dermatologist at Loxa Beauty and Melissa Gilbert, esthetician at Fantastic Services.
How Silicone As An Ingredient Can Lead To Breakouts
Many people use multiple different serums every day, typically in the morning and night as part of an anti-aging skincare routine. Hsu warns that silicone, an ingredient often found in popular serums and even makeup products can lead to pore-clogging and eventually, breakouts.
"You can often find silicone in make-up primers and even skincare products," he explains, "Companies use this for formula, textural and skin-smoothing purposes, but the downside to this ingredient is that the silicone smooths the skin by sinking into the pore and filling them, so that foundation [or makeup applied afterwards] can look a bit smoother."
Hsu notes that many people use serums before applying primer or makeup, and while silicone-based products are designed to smooth and prepare the skin for other products applied afterwards, this can clog pores even more. "The silicone can stay in the pores—despite face wash and exfoliating—hence clogging pores," he says.
Sobchak agrees, and adds that "silicone forms a layer on your skin, affecting the ability of the skin to get rid of impurities." This, she says, causes pore-clogging. "That's not all," Sobchak continues, pointing out that "silicone causes dehydration, further affecting your skin health." For this reason, she advises to "stay away from silicone products" and opt for options with hyaluronic acid.
If you’re concerned about acne-prone skin, Gilbert also stresses that "it’s best to start using non-comedogenic and oil-free products." These products have been developed specifically to prevent pore clogging and breakouts, she says. "Use water-based formulas and acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid and protective mineral make-up. Salicylic acid, in particular, treats, exfoliates and reduces congestion in the skin," she concludes, stressing that "it works to dissolve oil and clear your pores."