Pimples come and go and dry skin can be rectified by a great hydrating facial cream. But there’s one skin concern that continually eludes people: dark spots, aka melasma. There are a few different causes of melasma, so determining why you have dark spots on your skin in the first place is the first step toward figuring out both a treatment plan AND the best prevention methods. With that said, there is one common mistake that many people make that could be contributing to dark spots — and making matters worse once you have them.
We turned to experts Dr. Mary Alice Mina, a double-board certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon practicing at Baucom & Mina Derm Surgery, LLC who is the host of THE SKIN REAL podcast, and Dr. Zein Obagi, a dermatologist, Medical Director, and Founder of ZO Skin Health, to provide real answers for why you might be experiencing melasma, the common mistakes you should avoid — AND even treatment options for dark spots that actually work (so that you stop wasting money on ineffective serums).
What’s Causing Your Dark Spots?
A trip to a trusted dermatologist is the best way to discover why you have dark spots. But some common causes include sun damage, inflammation, and scarring, according to both experts. “Discoloration from the sun can cause dark spots known as lentigenes,” Dr. Mina says. “Inflammation can also cause dark spots, especially in individuals with dark skin. After an acne breakout, surgery, or a rash, a dark spot can result which is from inflammation. Try to avoid picking at your skin as this can lead to not only scarring but hyperpigmentation as well.”
Hormones are also a contributing factor. “Hormones can influence melanin production,” Dr. Obagi says. “During hormonal fluctuations, such as pregnancy or with certain medications, melanocytes become overactive, resulting in dark spots known as melasma.”
What’s the Biggest Mistake You’re Making?
That all depends, of course. If you are the type who picks at pimples, that could very well be the cause of your dark spots from inflammation. But an area that so many people miss is one that’s simple to remedy: you may not be using the proper sun protection.
“Protecting your skin from the sun's UV radiation is so important but we are also learning that hyperpigmentation (brown discoloration) on the skin may also be caused by visible light,” Dr. Mina says. “Typical sunscreens don't always block visible light so if you have dark spots, consider using a tinted sunscreen with iron oxide to help protect your skin from visible light.”
Dr. Obagi is adamant about the importance of always using broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 (even in the winter) and seeking shade during peak sun hours.
Treating your dark spots may be at the forefront of your mind, but you won’t find many great options at the local drugstore or Sephora. “You want to be sure to see your dermatologist regarding dark spots on your skin,” Dr. Mina says. “First and foremost, you want to be sure the dark spot is not a worrisome mole like a melanoma. Then your dermatologist can determine the cause of your brown spots and the best treatment.”
Best Treatments For Dark Spots
Dr. Obagi says there are three beneficial treatments used on dark spots:
Topical Treatments: “Dermatologists often recommend topical treatments that contain ingredients such as hydroquinone, retinoids, azelaic acid, kojic acid, or vitamin C,” Dr. Obagi says. “These ingredients can help lighten dark spots by inhibiting melanin production, promoting cell turnover, and reducing pigmentation.”
Chemical Peels: Chemical peels involve applying a chemical solution to the skin to exfoliate the outer layer, Dr. Obagi says — this treatment helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and improves overall skin tone and texture.
Laser Therapy: “Laser treatments, such as intense pulsed light (IPL) or fractional laser resurfacing, can target and break down dark spots, stimulating collagen production and promoting healthier skin,” Dr. Obagi notes.
What Doesn’t Work?
Sorry to burst product-loving bubbles everywhere, but a great number of creams and serums that aren’t prescribed by a doctor aren’t going to help make a dent in the appearance of dark spots — or can take a considerable amount of time to work (if at all).
“It's important to note that while essential oils can offer certain benefits for the skin, they are not considered the primary treatment for dark spots,” Dr. Obagi says. “Essential oils by Gya Labs, for example, can contribute to overall skin health and nourishment but should be used as complementary to the scientifically proven treatments mentioned above.”
So, first step: call a dermatologist. Second step: find out the cause of your dark spots and treatment options. And the step to take all along? Wear SPF 30 or higher each and every day.
