If your hair seems to be getting thinner, flatter, or more prone to breakage no matter what products you try, a professional hairstylist says the problem might actually lie in your styling habits—and you might not even realize it.
Justin Hickox, a veteran hairstylist with decades of experience, is shedding light on surprisingly common mistakes that are secretly wreaking havoc on fine or thinning hair. “When you learn what I’m about to reveal about thin, fine hair, your entire approach to how you deal with your hair is going to change,” Hickox shares in a recent video. “And if it doesn’t change, you can end up with an irreversible problem that can make your hair dull, frizzy, and impossible to get and keep volume in.”
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Improper heat use
The biggest issue? Improper heat use—especially without protection. According to Hickox, fine and thin hair types are particularly vulnerable to heat damage because they “cook fast and don’t bounce back” the way thicker textures might. That’s why applying a heat protectant is a must. And don’t fear silicones: “Some of them do a really good job at helping to fight against heat damage while still not building up on your hair at all.”
Letting your hair air dry
Another surprising no-no? Letting your hair air dry. While it might seem like the gentlest option, Hickox warns that air-drying can actually lead to damage because “wet hair is at its weakest state.” Instead, he recommends rough-drying right away or using a diffuser to give hair lift and direction without harsh heat.
On a related note, one of the most damaging mistakes, however, is styling damp hair with hot tools—a phenomenon that can cause what Hickox calls bubble hair. This happens when trapped water inside the strand turns to steam, forming tiny bubbles that permanently weaken the hair. “Once bubble damage happens, you can't fix it. The strand is flat toast,” he warns.
Even the type of brush and angle of your blow-dryer matter. Using a round brush on soaking wet hair or aiming hot air directly at the shaft can lead to unnecessary stress and collapsed volume. Instead, he recommends directing airflow down the shaft and using the right heat settings (under 300°F) to avoid damaging already delicate strands.
The bottom line
Hickox’s takeaway is clear: You don’t need more products—you need better technique. By understanding your hair’s texture and treating it with care, especially when it comes to heat styling, you can preserve your volume, shine, and strength. “When your hair is already more fragile, more prone to damage and breakage, you really just don’t get the luxury of not paying attention to the tools that you use,” he says.
