Retinoids have long been hailed as the gold standard in skincare—and for good reason. From smoothing fine lines and fading hyperpigmentation to keeping pores clear and preventing breakouts, this powerhouse ingredient can do it all. But according to dermatologist Dr. Daniel Sugai, the way you use your retinoid matters just as much as the product itself. In fact, a few common mistakes could be sabotaging your results—and even irritating your skin.
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Mistake #1: Using Too Much Product
If you think more retinoid equals better results, think again. Overapplying is one of the most common missteps. “If you’re making little dots of little green peas around the face, that’s way too much,” Dr. Sugai explains. Loading up your skin can lead to contact dermatitis, excessive dryness, and irritation—especially around sensitive areas like the eyes, nose creases, and mouth.
Instead, he recommends sticking to a pea-sized amount for your entire face. A helpful trick? Split that pea-sized amount into small dots across your face, then gently blend it in. And don’t skip moisturizer—layering it on top can help buffer irritation while keeping your skin hydrated.
Mistake #2: Being Too Afraid To Start
Many people delay using retinoids because they’re worried about “purging”—a temporary breakout phase that can happen when you first start. But according to Dr. Sugai, this fear is often overblown. “Yes, you can get purging in the first two to three weeks…but I don’t see this often,” he says. And if it does happen, it’s usually short-lived.
He compares it to starting hair loss treatments and fearing the initial shedding phase—it’s a temporary step on the way to better results. Waiting too long to start your retinoid routine could mean missing out on its long-term benefits.
Mistake #3: Using It As A Spot Treatment
It might be tempting to dab retinoid on a single breakout, but that’s not how it’s meant to work. “You see a little pimple and you’re just putting a little dab of retinoid over it—no,” Dr. Sugai says. Retinoids are designed to treat the entire face, not just individual blemishes.
Applying it evenly allows the ingredient to work its magic on multiple concerns at once—from acne prevention to overall skin texture and tone. Think of it as a full-face treatment, not a quick fix.
The Bottom Line
Retinoids can transform your skin—but only if you’re using them correctly. Keep it simple: use a small amount, don’t let fear hold you back, and apply it consistently across your entire face. When used the right way, this one ingredient can truly live up to its reputation as a skincare game-changer.
