If you’re new to learning about skincare or are simply looking to improve your existing routine, turning to the experts is never a bad idea to get some inspiration as to what you should be including in your arsenal to achieve the smoothest, healthiest looking complexion. It’s no secret that SPF is a skincare favorite for people of all ages, but aside from sun protection, what are the derms really using to keep their skin enviable and smooth as they grow older?
To finally put the question to rest once and for all, we checked in with board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick to find out the one skincare staple she can’t live without, and just why it’s the most important ingredient you can include in your efforts to ward off signs of aging.
Retinoids
Stronger than the simple answer of retinol, Garshick swears that starting retinoids at an early age is the best kept secret to fighting off premature aging and ensuring a bright complexion for years to come. “Retinoids are one of the key ingredients we have with the science to support its use for anti-aging,” explains Garshick. “It not only helps to treat and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, but it also helps to reduce blemishes and improve the overall tone and texture of the skin.”
Having a powerful multi-purpose ingredient such as this in your skincare routine can help to treat a wide range of skin issues, making it effective for topical concerns even outside of fine lines and wrinkles.
While the common conception is to start using retinoids as you grow older, Garshick suggests integrating this ingredient into your routine as soon as possible if you want to reap the preventative benefits it may offer as well. This is because retinoids may also work to halt breakouts and skin inflammation as well.
“It is the same ingredient we often use to treat acne in teenagers,” notes Garshick. “Because collagen begins to decrease in your 20s, using a retinoid helps to promote collagen production which can help to slow down the aging process, making it helpful to both prevent and treat signs of aging.”
You may be tempted to jump in feet first when adding a new ingredient to your skincare routine, but starting slowly is actually the most effective method for preventing irritation from stronger products, such as retinoids. “It is best to ease in initially two to three times per week and increase the frequency as tolerated,” suggests Garshick.
After you’ve adjusted your skin to using the new ingredient daily, she notes that you should expect to see some significant changes in your complexion within 4-6 weeks of use, so long as you’re staying consistent with your application and maintaining an otherwise beneficial skincare routine. “[Your skin can] continue to improve over the next 2-3 months with continued benefits over time,” she adds.
However, before beginning any new product it’s important to know the potential dangers, and retinoids are no exception. Much like retinol, this ingredient can prove to be incredibly drying to the skin, which is why Garshick suggests easing into full time use. That being said, pairing it with a thick moisturizer can help to bolster your skin’s barrier and limit any peeling or flaking that may result from usage.
“It is best to avoid using at the same time as exfoliating acids as this can cause increased sensitivity of the skin,” adds Garshick, warning that skin sensitivity to the sun will increase, so making sure to wear SPF has never been more important.
Lastly, if you are pregnant, it is not advisable to use retinoids, as it can be potentially harmful to the baby. If you have any further questions about adding retinoids into your skincare routine, checking with your dermatologist is always a good idea, but across the board this is one of the most powerful anti-aging ingredients that even the derms use in their own skincare routine.
