Of all the stubborn skincare issues you may be eager to address, dark spots take the cake. Sure, pimples are no fun and extreme dryness can even be itchy and painful, but there are so many great products on the market that target these concerns.
But hyperpigmentation that’s caused by UV exposure, hormonal changes, or aging? That’s far trickier to tackle.
Many dermatologists will give it to you straight and tell you that in-office procedures like lasers are your best bet — and that prevention with daily SPF use is the number one way to avoid sun-caused dark spots. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t solid topical treatments that can help, as long as you are shopping for ingredients that can actually make a difference. Dr. Patricia Gaile Espinosa, a board-certified dermatologist and writer with My Psoriasis Team, shares her three favorite surprising ingredients to target dark spots and age spots.
Niacinamide
Nicotinamide, also known as Niacinamide, is a form of Nicotinic acid (or vitamin B3) that is used to prevent skin aging and promote brighter skin, Dr. Espinosa shared. “It improves wrinkles and skin elasticity,” she said. “It can also control inflammation in acne. It also controls inflammatory mediators brought about by sun exposure. Niacinamide slows down the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. The melanosome is part of a cell wherein melanin pigments are synthesized and stored.”
In other words: it can help target dark spots.
One serum to try: Allies of Skin Tranexamic and Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum — which also contains Dr. Espinosa’s next favorite ingredient.
Arbutin
Arbutin is derived from hydroquinone and D-glucose and inhibits tyrosinase in melanocytes, Dr. Espinosa said. What does that mean for your skin? Well, tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin synthesis, producing color in the skin, so Arbutin can actually prevent dark spots from forming.
Licorice
Licorice extract isn’t just an ingredient in your holiday cookies. It contains glycyrrhizin, which has anti-inflammatory property. “It inhibits free radical production and prevents inflammation on the skin that is brought about by sun exposure,” Dr. Espinosa said. It also inhibits erythema in the skin and aids in wound healing. The licorice extract also contains glabridin which is responsible for inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Thereby, inhibiting melanin synthesis in cells.”
And by inhibiting melanin synthesis in cells, it can help target dark spots and prevent new ones from forming.
Curious about licorice in skincare? Try Eminence Organic Skin Care Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster-Serum, which is also infused with exfoliating lactic acid and skin-brightening vitamins C and E.
