Finding a quick anti-aging fix is always exciting, let’s just admit it. But quick fixes and magic potions are hard to come by — even the golden standard ingredients of the skincare world like retinol can take time and patience to produce results. And, depending on your skin type or personalized needs and skin concerns, an ingredient that works well for one person may prove sensitizing or even dangerous for you. It’s always a good idea to try products out slowly to see if your skin reacts well and can adapt to them. And when it comes to ingredients that should be on your radar, Dr. Saurabh Sethi, MD MPH in gastroenterology, hepatology, and interventional endoscopy, says these three popular anti-aging ingredients are ones that might actually prove dangerous.
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Retinol (Vitamin A)
There aren’t many skincare ingredients that dermatologists and doctors agree upon — but retinol is one that has been proven to help skin turnover, aid in the production of collagen (which dwindles with age), and make a noticeable difference in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. “Retinol is known to stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone,” Dr. Sethi confirms.
Unfortunately, the strong ingredient can also have some downsides.
“Retinol can cause skin irritation, redness, dryness, and increased sensitivity to sunlight,” Dr. Sethi says. “In high concentrations, it may even cause blistering or burns.”
Dr. Sethi says one alternative ingredient that you can consider if retinol is too aggravating for your skin is bakuchiol, a natural plant extract, has been suggested as a potential alternative to retinol. “It offers similar anti-aging benefits with less risk of irritation.”
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is primarily used to lighten dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and melasma by inhibiting melanin production, Dr. Sethi explains. On its surface that sounds like a much (much) cheaper alternative to in-office laser resurfacing procedures, and it is — and it can work for many. But it has also been linked to potential skin irritation, allergic reactions, and even rare cases of ochronosis, a condition characterized by blue-black pigmentation, Dr. Sethi warns.
“Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) has shown promise in reducing hyperpigmentation and improving skin tone without the associated risks of hydroquinone,” Dr. Sethi offers as an alternative.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
AHAs can be a fantastic ingredient for aging skin — they exfoliate the skin, promote cell turnover, improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and enhance skin radiance, Dr. Sethi says.
But AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, can also cause skin irritation, redness, dryness, and increased sensitivity to sunlight, especially in high concentrations or for individuals with sensitive skin, he adds.
Try Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, instead. “[They] offer similar benefits to AHAs but with a larger molecular size, resulting in gentler exfoliation and reduced potential for irritation,” Dr. Sethi says.
Mercury
Although it’s not an anti-aging ingredient per se, Dr. Sethi also mentions the importance of making sure your skincare products — especially those that contain skin-lightening properties — are free of mercury.
“Mercury is a toxic heavy metal and can cause severe health issues, including kidney damage, neurological problems, and skin rashes,” Dr. Sethi says. “Instead of mercury, look for safer alternatives like arbutin, kojic acid, or licorice extract, which are known to help brighten the skin and reduce hyperpigmentation.”
Skincare product marketing might have you believe that every single anti-aging product on the market is perfect for you — but this isn’t always the case.
“Everyone's skin is unique, and what works for one person may not work for another,” Dr. Sethi says. “Patch testing new products and consulting with a healthcare professional or dermatologist is crucial to assess individual tolerances and ensure the safety of any anti-aging regimen.”
