Breakouts are frustrating no matter what the cause may be— whether that’s stress, PMS or clogged pores. There are many ways your pores, (tiny openings in your skin that release sweat and oil) can become clogged, which often results in the formation of whiteheads and blackheads.
The good news is, you can prevent pore-clogging with the right skincare products and by looking out for certain ingredients that further contribute to acne. We asked two dermatologists and a cosmetic chemist for skincare advice and how to unclog your pores. Their main message is to avoid comedogenic ingredients. Read on for what they entail, what to avoid when reading skincare labels and what products to reach for instead.
Avoid Comedogenic Ingredients
While looking for instant moisture, many of us mistakenly grab products with comedogenic, or pore-clogging ingredients and not even know it. So, what is comedogenic and what isn’t? What kind of products have potentially pore-clogging ingredients? For the answers to these questions, we spoke with board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Kemunto Mokaya, M.D., to break down commonly pimple-inducing product ingredients.
“Comedogenic ingredients cause breakouts and clogged pores,” says Mokaya. “They include oils and emollients like coconut oil, cocoa butter, palm oil, wheat germ oil, and marula oil.” She also says to look out for five other types of ingredients, the second being lanolin, a waxy substance that derives from sheep wool, commonly used in dry skin creams.
The third group includes alcohols and stearates like propylene glycol monostearate, hexadecyl alcohol and isocetyl stearate. The fourth is fatty acids like stearic acid, wheat germ glycerate and lauric acid. The fifth would be sodium laureth sulfate and the sixth is carrageenan, an extract from red seaweed (commonly known as Irish Moss).
Dermatologist and cosmetologist Ksenia Sobchak points out that coconut oil as a comedogenic ingredient can lead to pore-clogging. “Coconut oil is a kind of essential oil with beneficial properties on the skin,” Sobchak says, referring to users with very dry skin. She says that while coconut oil helps some in “nourishing the hair, skin, and teeth,” it is also thick and oily, making it hard for the skin to absorb. “It’s easily trapped under the skin, leading to pore-clogging,” Sobchak adds.
If you’ve been using comedogenic ingredients such as the ones listed and are experiencing breakouts, we’ve compiled advice on what might work to unclog your pores and still serve your other skincare needs.
Products to Try Instead
An ingredient you might see at many drugstores is salicylic acid. It has a reputation for reducing swelling and redness, and also unclogging blocked skin pores. It's included in many acne-specific products to allow pimples to shrink.
Sobchak recommends using salicylic acid if you're experiencing clogged pores. "Salicylic chemical exfoliant is packed with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that help unclog skin pores," says Sobchak.
If you want to moisturize your skin without thick, heavy products, we received several recommendations from Vanessa Thomas, cosmetic chemist, and founder of Freelance Formulations. "Aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, squalane and grapeseed oils are all great alternatives, especially for those who are looking for a lighter moisturizing ingredient," says Thomas.
Reading through countless labels at the store isn't the most feasible option for many of us, so Mokaya advises to look for key words like "non-comedogenic."
"Read product labels to see what ingredients they contain so that you can avoid the comedogenic ones," says Mokaya. She notes that it's important to be aware that "some cosmetic products that claim to be non-comedogenic can still contribute to breakouts."
This is why it's most important to see your dermatologist about the best non-comedogenic products for you and your skin. Products like coconut oil can help one person's dry skin but clog another's oily skin, so the only way to know what products you need is scheduling a visit with a skincare expert!
