Uncategorized | September 8, 2008

New Beauty Regime: Nixe The Moisturizer?

About a month ago I went for a facial at Allure Day Spa–a luxurious retreat in the heart of Manhattan. The esthetician took one look at me under the blinding light and said, "You use moisturizer, don't you?"

Why, yes, of course I did. After all, that is what dermatologists and fashion magazines have told me all my life: I have dry skin and need to moisturize. What I was about to hear, however, would rock my world. "Dry skin is a myth. Stop using moisturizer."

She proceeded to explain how dry skin can often be the result of inflammation and infection rather than genetic predisposition. Just as chapstick is said to increase the dryness of your lips when used in excess, so too can moisturizer deplete the natural moisturizing properties of the skin. Was Dr. Obagi on to something?

In short, she suggested a new regime: wash twice a day with a top notch, exfoliating cleanser. My old standby is St. Ives Apricot Scrub for Blackhead and Blemish Control– at $5 it's a steal. For a treat once to twice a week, splurge on DermaDoctor's Physical Chemistry ($75), a miraculous skin brightener and softener. It's pure genius.

St. Ives Apricot Scrub DermaDoctor Physical Chemistry

Follow up in the mornings and evenings with an anti-inflammatory toner or astringent. Ingredients to look for are willow bark, salicylic acid, and witch hazel. Neutrogena makes an inexpensive Pore Refining Toner with alpha and beta hydroxy acids. In addition, throw in a clay mask treatment once to twice a week for really clear skin and smaller pores. Clinque's Deep Cleansing Emergency Mask ($19.50) is a godsend.

Neutrogena Pore Refining Toner Clinique Emergency Mask

The results? Four weeks later, my skin is clearer and more radiant than ever. I may have a lot of useless creams sitting around now, but her advice changed my skin for the better.

What do you think? Are creams and moisturizers a must or just a bunch of malarky?

by SheFindsTara  |  Tagged in :  
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comments
  • robyn

    i tend to say yes, moisturizer is unecessary, and i have SUPER dry skin. i also have psoriasis, though, so during the winter months i use it on my body (not my face) when if i start to get breakouts.

    apricot scrub is a god-send for sure! as for toner, i just buy a big bottle of pure witch hazel. for my skin it works better than any “beauty brand” i’ve tried, won’t dry out my skin but still does the work of getting it super clean!

  • raquel

    Interesting that you recommended St. Ives Apricot Scrub. An esthetician told me that stuff is too harsh on your face and too unnatural, leaving a waxy film on your skin. I’ve also always been told that everyday exfoliation is a no-no. Funny how everyone says something different.

    raquellabella.wordpress.com

  • Beth

    Up is down! Black is white! No moisturizer?? Even my spf 45 Neutragena? (seriously, where does sunscreen come into this routine?)

    And I’ve always been told the same as Raquel, that exfoliating is not an every day thing..but this has you using the harsh stuff twice a day?

    I would love to see more information on this!

  • SheFindsTara

    Now there’s something important, which puts holes in the theory: sunscreen. If you are in the sun everyday, an SPF is crucial, but I’d only use oil-free, non-comedogenic types.

    As for exfoliating too much, I haven’t had any problems with it. Then again, everyone’s skin is different and sensitive skin might have adverse reactions. If so, swap it with another thorough, but gentle cleanser.

  • Nettie

    I think that the Esthetician has NO idea what she is talking about.
    Using harsh exfoliants too often will harm the skin. Especially that St. Ives with ground nut shells!!! What is that girl thinking?

    (will finish in the next post)

  • Nettie

    continued….
    It is fine to use a cleanser with a light exfoliant, but skip the harsh exfoliators. Find a good one and use it once a week.
    Your skin when it is young naturally exfoliates, if memory serves me, about once a month or a tad less. As we age, the skin does not exfoliate as often, leading to wrinkles, crows feet, etc.
    The purpose of exfoliating is to help the skin along to help prevent the lines and remove the dead cells.

  • Nettie

    continued…
    If you over-exfoliate, you are hurting your skin.
    As an Esthetician, I can tell you that we are addicted to exfoliating. I have seen techs who burned their skin from too much exfoliation.
    Bottom line, stay away from harsh products and only exfoliate once a week.
    OH, and YES, you DO need to use a moisturizer. ALL skin types need to use one. You need to protect your skin from environmental issues.
    Dry skin a myth? This chick needs to get some real education! OMG!!!
    Nettie

  • Karissa

    I can see where maybe we over moisturize? but not doing it all? nah, I say phoohie. You don’t need heavy creams but I will stick with my routine to combat antioxidants and the signs of aging. thanks for the tip.

    I do suggest you go back and ask the other estheticians at the spa what they think about her theory.

  • Jennifer

    I have been told that everyone should moisturize, cleanse, exfoliate and use toner – but different skin types require different frequencies and different types of products.

    I agree that some may overmoisturize, overexfoliate, etc – anything in excess is not good for you.

    The bit about inflammation and infection is interesting. I will start using my toner as instructed, instead of barely ever. :)

  • gia

    i am not sure any of it matters, i do believe genetics plays a huge part in how skin looks. i dont do anything consistently to my face, i exfoliate when i can remember, i moisturize when i feel extra dry or i am bored, i use an inexpensive facial soap every morning, toner, ehh…all in all my skin tends to look pretty much the same all the time, no matter what i do. i have been told i have great skin, but i think its just okay.