It’s hard to find a makeup enthusiast who isn’t well-versed in the classics — like rosy cheeks, a red lip, and smoky eyes. Whether you’re searching for a makeup look to pair with a formal dress or one that will boost your drama quotient when you’re rocking a simple jeans-and-a-tee outfit, smoky eye makeup has forever been a look for the ages. But every now and then it’s fun to shake up the classics with a twist — which is exactly why the reverse smoky eye has become a major makeup trend in 2023.
Unlike a traditional smokey eye, which relies on concentrating darker shades of eyeshadow and liner on the lid, a reverse smoky eye is just what it sounds like: the majority of your color will be placed on the lower lash line, leaving your eyelid bare and free to reflect more light. And, if you have hooded eyes or less lid area in general to play up, this look is particularly striking.
Curious to learn more tricks from makeup pros? Read on to hear what makeup artists have to say about one of the trendiest eye makeup looks of the season.
What, exactly, is a reverse smokey eye?
Let’s get more technical and dig into what you can expect with from a reverse smokey eye.
“A smokey eye is a beloved makeup technique as it’s flattering and stands the test of time — but if you want something a little bolder OR if you’re lacking lid space thanks to hooded lids, then TikTok’s latest smokey eye trend that has racked up 2.7m views is for you,” says Professional makeup artist Saffron Hughes who works with FalseEyelashes.co.uk. “The reverse smokey eye keeps the lid light and bright, turning everything we know about a regular smokey eye on its head. The technique uses lighter shades in the crease, focusing definition on the bottom lash line instead.”
You can achieve a smokey, sultry reverse smokey eye in three easy steps, according to Hughes.
** “First, apply a wash of a neutral eyeshadow in your normal crease, taking it onto the lower lash line,” Hughes instructs. “As with any smoky eye, don’t worry about precision; messy is key.
** Taking a creamy kohl eyeliner, build up a thick line on your lower lash line, pulling it up at the outer corner of your eye in a wing.
** The final step is to blend with a small pencil brush, starting at the edge of the eyeliner and working your way towards where the application is the most dense. You can create a sultry, cat-eye effect by pull the outer wing of product outwards and upwards, following the natural curve line of your lower lash line.”
Keep in mind: there’s no strict rules with any kind of smokey eye so if you feel as if you have over-blended, you can go in with more eyeliner to pack in more of that product, according to Hughes. “Finish the look with a swipe of your favorite mascara, or your favorite eyelashes and you’re ready for date night,” she said.
Who looks best with a reverse smokey eye?
The gorgeous, dramatic look can work on anyone — and any eye shape. But, even though most eye makeup tips aren’t helpful to hooded-eye beauties because they require ample lid space to work their magic, the reverse smokey eye is an exception to that rule.
“The reverse smokey eye works for any eye shape, but as this technique defines an alternative area to the typical eyelid, those with hooded or mono-lidded eyes will see the biggest transformation,” Hughes reveals. “It also allows for the illusion of a completely different eye shape, so those with rounded, doe-eyes may see a more defined cat eye.”
If you’re in the mood to try a look that’s classic — but with a twist — give the reverse smokey eye a spin.
